Memphis Tonight

Something funny happened when we got to the hotel in Memphis. The registration desk at our hotel had, instead of offering mints or cookies to guests, offered ear plugs, because the hotel is less than a block from Beale Street, the entertainment and nightlife heart of Memphis. Beale Street is like a mini-me Bourbon Street in New Orleans, a hedonist, booze-soaked 2-block pedestrian mall. And hot as hell in the middle of the day. We hope the noise won't bother us, since the bars are allowed to stay open after 3 am (from a special exemption from the state legislature). Ear plugs at the ready!

a hot crowd on a hot day

We went to the Peabody Hotel to see the 5 o'clock duck march, a daily Memphis tradition. But the crowd in the hotel lobby was crazy, and the Peabody Hotel duck wrangler just went on and on about the history of the duck march, so we left before the main event. We got this shot of Allegra sitting on the fountain with the famous ducks a while before the grand ceremony. If you're interested, you can see the event here.

cute duckies!

Dinner was at a place recommended by many people - The Rendezvous for ribs. This is a rub, not a sauce, place, and the family was split on the ribs. Blythe and Steve were definite thumbs up (best ribs Steve ever had), but Allegra was a partial thumbs down - she prefers sauce to a rub. If you are in Memphis, definitely try this place. The menu is simple, there's no dessert, but the food is great and it's not real expensive.

Have fun finding the entrance!

We see the King and Graceland tomorrow, then hustle down through Mississippi to the Big Easy, so we will talk to you later!

Happy 17th Anniversary!

Happy 17 Years!!

What a great way to spend the first half of Day 9, also our 17th anniversary, at the Clinton Library & Museum. Steve and I met and got married, and Allegra was born during the Clinton presidency. In many ways, Clinton speaks to our generation. The building is on a beautiful site right on the banks of the Arkansas River, which Steve and I floated on in 1993. The first time I met his family was driving in a Winnebago with Martha, Betsy, Martin, Henry (1 year old), Diane, Andy and Adam, from Pittsburgh to Hot Springs for the The Coates Family Reunion. At that time I was thoroughly vetted by the Coates side of the family (all 6 aunts, 1 uncle and their respected spouses and Steve's cousins) and I guess I passed the test. We're going to reunite with some of them when we're in Texas in a few days.

Very post-modern

The Clinton Library did a very good job of presenting a very balanced picture of Clinton's presidency. Allegra learned that Bill had 5 saxophones that were specifically made for him (4 of them were tenors). This was the first presidency that we became acutely aware of the positive impact his decisions had on our lives. We were reminded of his decision to allow graduate students to not have to pay tax on tuition remission. Clinton emphasized globalization and the information age. He was adamant about equal rights for all, health care and education. President Clinton brought our economy out of a deep post-war recession into the most successful American economy in 100 years. We miss Bill!

That silver mouthpiece is supposed to be the best

Strive for the best, then give back to our community/country

President Peelor gives the Cabinet the business..

We've landed in Memphis and are about to head out to Beale St. and the Peabody Hotel to do some sightseeing. Stay tuned...